Le Poulet!

This is the story of a very special chicken. Talking with my friend Ginger one Sunday night, she shared with me how she had attended African church that day. It was an action packed service which also included a wedding and 2 baby dedications. People came forward carrying bags of rice on their heads and with live chickens and roosters (in the church!) as gifts for the babies. The pastor asked that all "gifts" be placed in the nearby closet and in went the rice, chickens and roosters until the services had concluded. After Ginger shared her story, the conversation turned to our friend Sharon's upcoming birthday and how best we celebrate. Almost unanimously, the decision was made that the very best birthday present for Sharon would be her very own chicken. How very appropriate, how very African.

How much is that chicken in the basket? (1500 CFAs or 3 dollars. Quite a steal!)

Here the chicken's legs are tied together to prevent her from running away. Little does she know it's going to be the best day of her life!

Here my fearless comrades, Becky and Anja puncture breathing holes in the chicken's temporary cardboard box dwelling as we smuggle her from market back onto the ship, violating all sorts of maritime laws in the process.

Once back in the cabin, our dear poulet was found to be quite odiferous. We determined she needed a shower.

Scrub-a-dub-dub, one stinky chicken in the tub

Free bird stretches her wings

Tres jolie!

A wash and a blow dry

Happy Birthday Sharon! The gift was very well received. The chicken so very calm, docile and loving. A very fine bird indeed. She partied the night away to the loud music up on the deck.

but what now to do with a chicken aboard the ship? We headed down to the Hospital Ward and offered this most loving, docile bird to Epiphane, one of the translators. At first, he didn't quite believe us that we had a chicken in our possession in the cabin but the photos confirmed it. He laughed hysterically when we told him about the chicken's shower and blow dry. We smuggled the bird off the boat at 11 pm and met Epiphane and Daniel on the dock whereby the chicken officially transferred hands.

Here our dear bird in a box goes for a motorcycle ride (probably not her first).

Off into the sunset!

What has become of this dear chicken you ask? We feared she may have become dinner but the next day at work Epiphane told us that he would do her no harm. He agreed that she was a lovely chicken and has decided to raise her in his yard. She currently resides under a basket. He plans to introduce her to a rooster friend and to send us photos of their family. News of the chicken aboard traveled fast. She is the talk of the town and the crew and translators find this to all to be absolutely hilarious.

Incinerate!

There's lots of fun to be had in the Engine Room on the lowest deck of the ship. One Sunday afternoon we took a tour with Abraham and Philip. This included the visiting the ship's Sewage Treatment Plant (STP) & Incinerator.

Philip invited us back one Friday night to assist with the incineration of the hospital waste.

We Didn't Start the Fire!
952 degrees Celsius!

Burn Baby Burn!

Disco Inferno!

Friday night down in the Engine Room after work, naturally a dance party ensued!

Boats of Benin

On one of our walks with Lok, we visited the fishing village where all of the brightly painted wooden fishing canoes are docked in the same Port du Peche where the Africa Mercy Ship is docked. Brightly colored flags from countries all around the world fly in the breeze on these boats. I greatly enjoyed reading what the fisherman paint on the sides of their canoes.



Boat building in action, the wooden pirogue takes its shape

A Tribute to Gurkhas

24 hours a day, the gangway of the Africa Mercy Ship is guarded by Gurkahs from Nepal. Historically they are known for their bravery and strength, soldiers serving in both the British and Indian Armies. They are characterized by courage, loyalty, self-sufficiency, physical strength, resilience, orderliness, the ability to work hard for long periods of time, fighting tenacity and military strategy. They serve around the world providing security for ships in foreign ports and U.S. Consulates. I enjoyed getting to know them and greatly admire their service to keep us all safe. They have left their families in Nepal for many months at a time to serve aboard the Africa Mercy Ship. I found them to be calm, gentle, humble, generous and great at maintaining order and safety on the gangway as they guarded the entrance to the ship.






Ganesh and Alainie

Krishna and Sharon

Lok on one of our long walks around the city of Cotonou. My friend Hettie and I loved going for "Walks with Lok". He would ask, "Where would you like to go today?" We felt safe walking with him and would request to explore places we wouldn't have gone without him for safety reasons like the fishing village or beach. Lok is calm and gentle and protective, very aware of his surroundings, he really looked out for us. Thank you Lok for the adventures, great walks and mangoes!

Football!

We have formed an official Mercy Ships Soccer Team, complete with coach and have been practicing Monday and Wednesday nights at a local field (of sand). Our team is truly international with players/crew members from all over the world, including translators from Benin. Playing football in the sand in the hot and humid weather feels a bit like trying to run across the Sahara Desert. Coach is trying to get us in shape to take on other local teams from Benin. We imagine we will be the only co-ed team in the league

Trying to get organized and pick teams for a scrimmage.

Goofing around and trying to get organized

Back to the ship after a rigorous practice

The local gas station

Motorcycles are everywhere! And so are these "gas stations" along the sides of the road. They consist of a wooden table with recycled glass bottles of all shapes and sizes holding petrol. The zemi-jahn (motorcycle taxi) driver pulls up, picks out the size bottle he needs and fills the tank using a funnel. The glass bottles are used over and over again.

I am impressed by the "recycling program" in Benin. Similarly Coca-Cola bottles are reused and refilled over and over again, with the labels wearing away. If you buy a coke from a cart stand, you must stand there and drink the entire beverage and then return the bottle to the seller when you are finished.

La Siesta

The ability to fall asleep anywhere is truly a special talent. The afternoon nap anytime between noon and 3 pm is a common practice here in Benin when the heat of the day peaks and it is simply too hot to work. I love this custom and am amazed at the sights of people sleeping all over the place in the afternoon: on piles of bricks, under vehicles, on benches and the sidewalk.




Hammocks suspended under large trucks are a common sight and allow for a shady spot to snooze whenever needed.

La Siesta in action, this time on a hammock made of ricebags sewn together.

How do they do it? Zemi-jahn (motorcycle taxi) drivers sleep perched on their bikes.

Dress Ceremony

Women who have undergone surgical repair of vesicovaginal fistula or VVF (a hole between the bladder and birth canal sustained through prolonged obstructed labor which results in the constant leaking of urine) participate in a dress ceremony and celebration before returning home. Many of the women treated for VVF live in northern rural villages where hospitals and Cesarean sections are not available. They are often married young and their bodies have not yet physically developed to allow for the birthing process. Their infants often died during prolonged labor. In most cases, their husbands have left them due to the constant leaking of urine and inability to bear children in the future. Often they are rejected by their families as well and live in isolation. Some have sought cures from witch doctors and voodoo priests. After surgical repair of this condition, a woman receives a new brightly colored African dress which symbolizes new life, "a garment of praise instead of a spirit of despair" (Isaiah 61:3).
Attending a Dress Ceremony on the Hospital Ward is a deeply moving experience where each woman shares her story. A time of celebration, drumming, singing and dancing.

Do not be afraid; you will not suffer shame.
Do not fear disgrace; you will not be humiliated.
You will forget the shame of your youth
and remember no more the reproach of your widowhood.
Isaiah 54:4

Benin Half Marathon!

My friend Ginger is amazing. She learned about the Benin Half Marathon while we were eating dinner in the dining hall the night before the event and said, "Hmmmm....I think I'd like to do that." With no training other than running up and down the dock a few times and a previous half marathon under her belt, this Chariot of Fire decided this was a once in a lifetime opportunity she couldn't let pass her by. Here she is lining up to register on the morning of the event, a female Yovo competitor a rare sight and attracting quite a bit of attention.



I was delighted to see this Greek representation all the way here in Benin.
The footwear for this event came in all shapes, sizes and styles. Some ran barefoot or in flip flops while others wore whatever sneakers they could borrow, even if this meant jamming their toes into shoes that were way too small with their heels squashing the heel of the shoes.

Imagine running 13 miles like this!
Mercy Ships was well represented and all runners finished the race despite water stations without water (ironcally the race was sponsored by a bottled water company) and without accepting rides offered along the way by motorcycle taxis.